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Nicolae Romanescu Park

The one genuinely great thing in Craiova — 90 hectares of designed parkland with lakes, bridges and long walks. Kiosks along the paths sell soft ice cream, which is how most of an afternoon here ends. Go towards evening if you can: the terrace lights come on across the water, the carousel and the fairground stalls light up, and on summer weekends there is often a free show on one of the lawns with half the neighbourhood sitting out to watch it.

It changes completely at dusk

The same park is two different places. In daylight it is lakes, bridges and long walks; after sunset the terraces light up across the water, the carousel and the prize stalls switch on at the fairground end, and the paths fill with families. Nothing is ticketed and nothing needs booking — you just turn up. The last of the light behind the pines at the top of the park is the best of it.

Free shows on the lawns

On summer weekends a stage goes up on the grass — costumed performers, a PA, and everyone sitting on the ground or standing with pushchairs. No tickets and no announcements in English; you find it by hearing it. Dates are not published anywhere reliable, so treat it as luck rather than a plan.

Bulevardul Nicolae Romanescu 1A, Craiova

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